Snow, frozen, wet, rain (Knin, Dia 57, 3246km)

I arrive to the youth hostel and it is close, no just a moment one mobile phone in the door, free call, call me please, and the phone number behind there… The first time that I saw that this is the feeling that you are in small town where all the people nows each other.

In few minutes came the porperty of the hostel and he just leaveme the keys and explainme how it works allÇ; is not so much people now this is no best moment to travel (it is one of the phrases that most I listen)…

After to install and check everything in the room, for sure I need all the small room just for me and all my things is not a problem because I dont share with nobody…

I cant remember how I start to “talk” with this person but finnally we share a conversation with the google translator, he told about his son he was playing a basketball tournament in Barcelona, and know he want to change the team; it is the typical person that are very orgulloso about his family, his city, his country, he just want to saw me on internet photos about Croatia and some stuuffs; -I am working now but in some minutes I will finnish we can go to eat calamares, – for sure it will be a pleasure.

He didnt accept my money so he pay the dinner, while he start to talk with the chamber about I dont know but the conversation is going up, up, just I understand AlQaeda, so after some minutes I decide to leave the restaurant and go to the hostel… After one or two hours I meet him another time and start to talk again, and he begin to told me that he was in the war in Bosnia Killing musulmans I get impressioned how he told me that, he is so frozen and he is talking about killing people, I dont know what to say, also after he show a photo on internet is him with their war friends with the guns and with one nazi flag, other photo one destryed mezquita for him with canons, he start tatatata, pum pum pum, hi hitler! but very tranquility I am very impression I said to him that is not good, me comunist, but he doesnt told me anything, Ok we dont understand each other so is better to leave the conversation, but anything bads happends…

So go to sleep and will see tomorrow what I will do

I wake up and I go around the town buy something, and see how is the village. Just in some minutes start to snow, nice, so I decided that today I will be here for one night more… It will not stop in all the day the snow; so I profit the market that is in the center and go to buy some hat for the winter, It was really funny talk with the sellers, is dobre (good) the hat yeah yeah dobre dobre, jajajaj and all people start to laugh ok me too when I saw my face with the hat…

Just almost the day I am in the hostel just, I went to take some photos and to have the delicious typical dessert of Samobor… After in the hostel I meet the strange man of yesterday and we say good bye.

The car machines began yesterday to take out the snow of the roads, so today is Okay to start to ride again, until snow other time. The day is perfect to cicle, is cold but with sun is very nice;  and see how can it changes the landscape it is wonderful, the road start to go up up up, but with out traffic, until I arrive to Karlovac (big town, 45km). The toursist office is closed today so just follow the same road to the south and try to dont feel the -5ºC  at night. So I take a small road after 80km and I found a “perfect” place to put the tent, completly full of snow around and everywhere it is magical place, different of all the days before; I make  a soup with the snow, and in some minutes I am sleeping, like at 19:00 I dont why but I feel very tired… And I get up  at 08:00 more than 12 hours sleeping thats great, and I didnt feel so much cold, but it was, the half beer that I leave yesterday night is completly frozen outside like the rest of the things, the seat of my bike is frozen also…

Following the same road that I leave yesterday I start the day and in some minutes it start to snow, and it doesn’t stops, my foots are getting frozen fucking frozen, my guitar and my trailer behind me is just snow almost 30cm of snow up on my guitar… I cant continuous like this is impossible also the road you dont see anything, the cars cant go so fast for the ice and I must be pray to dont go down… so after 25 (2hours) I meet a restaurant-hostel with internet and I decide to be here until stop the snow but, it doesnt stop so I pass the night here and tomorrow will see… All the day snowing, until night it finnish

You can take everything you want and how many you want for breakfast!! are you sure? heheh yes, ok I finnish full full full of food, so in the rest of the day I didint need to eat until dinner (it was enough with omelette of potatoes and 3eggs with bacon, milk, muesly) … Start to ride, cold but still no snowing. I arrive to Plitvicka Jezera (national parks with wonderfull lakes), and they advertist me If you want to be alive take the bus to go to Zadar, the weather for tomorrow and past tomorrow it will be worst that the last days, but I know how I am and I ignore that, so I follow the same road; go to small road and look for a place to put the tent. The place is like nothing just snow, and far away some mountains, it takes to me the remember what I want to see if finnally I arrive to Mongolia (one of my dreams since some year before), just nothing that is what I want to see. Clean the place to put the tent and ready, some dinner, read, espacio en blanco, and sleep.

It is wonderful when you have travelling for “long time” (not so long, yet) and almost every day you sleep in different places, and its difficult to remember when you get up where you put the tent the day before , this moment is Magic just open the door, and……. see that…. no words is like a new day in a new place all completly for you, to enjoy, to learn, to share… definitly to live.

Same road, and in some minutes start to rain, snow stop, start again stop; I must to go fast as I can to the next town and try to follow some information maybe it will be here some shelteres to enjoy the nature… but nothing I didnt find anything, just some coffees in Garcanc while I talk with the chamber in RUstic Caffee where he make a suggestion take the bus to Zadar it will  be the best option go to the coast by bus, if I was you I will do it; ok so what I do? dont go to the coast, and dont take the bus, follow the same road that now goes to the south-est to arrive to knin next big town is about 60km, I start to go up in very long port, where when I start it was rainning, and in hundred metters going up it changes to snow, I feel very tired, going up, start to be smog also, so cold, smog, snow, and wet inside, so I decided to stop and try hitch hiking, but not so many cars also, and just the cars that pass me sawme like a strange person in the middles of the snow with a big bike… So after 30min it doesnt works so comeon take the bike ang go up!!! After some Km going up, go little bit down and flat until I saw the sgnal welcome to Zadar region, and from here the snow in the road start to disappear just 5km more and the snow it doesnt exits thats take me more power, anyway my foots are completly wet and cold very cold, and watching long I start to see a long way going down, but long long, and wonderfull around the mountain crossing some valleys by some bridges, also I have the wind helpping me and the road it doesnt go so much down but with the wind I cycle faster than 50km all the time, just in the bridges where the wind get crazy I need to take the bike very strong to dont follen down, maybe it was 15km like this, Where I was before to take this long way going down? Going down also I feel that I start to dont feel good, I didnt eat so much and I don want to stop until I arrive to Knin it will be 20km, completly wet inside, feeling really bad, and cold it start to go little bit up, and this 20km was one of the most longest km that I made never…

I arrive finnally to Knin feeling very bad, after sometime I found the hostel…

Escaping from the cold weather I found a warm people (52Days,2968Km)

So I get up In Wien, with the fix idea to go to the south, just packing all the things and is 8:30 time to go.

Go out of the city is worst than enter, all the time pass in my head go to Danub is easy to find the way, yes no yes no comeon yes go to Danub just in this moment I ask somebody and I am in the wrong way, so in the good way to take the E9, casuality? nye so just some hundreds meters from there the first sign of E9, ok so go to the south. Go out of the city take me 2 hours, so I decide to spend some hours during the night cycling until 20:00, the feeling during the first moment is dangerous but when I find the cicleroute it starts to be a magical moment  cycling at night no noise, dont see anything, just the light of the full moon its Ok, to cross some paths into the forest, but after that I lost the signals, I find, I lost, I find, I lost….is abut 20:00 and I am on the road with very poor lights and the road start to go up, I dont have so much food and not so much water and I start to get dizzy, so stop in any place put the tent and tomorrow will be other day… finnally 125Km is not so bad

Yeah other day that I start very early about 07:20 I am cycling, with out water,thinking that will be some shop near, but… road continuous going up and up and up, I cant belive, 9km (1000m a.s.l.)no shops no nothing just up up, and impossible to see nothing is completly cover by smog, I start to get dizzy another time but I need to arrive, so I arrive to the next village (Monirkirchen) with powerless, I go to buy something and eat. I take some information in tourist office about the cicleroute that now takes the name of R12 until the frontier with Slovenia.

First meters after Monirkirchen continuous going up, butnow in better conditions I can enjoy that, finnally I founded again the route R12 and it starts to go down, up, down, up… nice road with out cars, so Tryiing to proof all the hours that I can I made 135km until 19:30 when I start to get lost just some Km before the bordier with Slovenia, so I decide to take a small road and put the tent everywhere ohhh nice bus station so put down there, it was not good idea just when I start to sleep HALLO HALLO and with lights ohhh shit the police, I completly nude in the sleeping bag they dont speak english and I dont speak german, you need to go out forbidden stay here, yeah I know but, night, cold, lost, bike, no money, they take me my passport and start to writte something, ok I put my clothes and I go out and dont understand what they want that I do they just give me my Id card and say chursss (bye), Ok what I do now, I wait maybe they come in few minutes to see what I am doing, no nobody comes, so I decide to continuo sleeping in the tent, and it didnt was more problems, but still I dont know if they will send me a bild… I hope that they saw my birthday and they will think ohh poor guy yesterday his birthday and he is here… anyway will see

With all this problem I cant sleep very good so at 06:00 I start to pack all the things and at 6.30 I start to ride come back to Jessendorf from where I get lost, is very smog and it will be dangerous to take main road so I take small one directly to themountains and in 30Km I cross the border with Slovenia nobody there.  The day is very nice with sun cold but sun maybe 5C but I need to go fast I can so start to be wet and I take my Tshirt, for some hours I am going really fast, and then I am in the border with Croatia, I dont Know if go there or continuous in Slovenia I feel thats the contry is very friendly just the people that I ask or in supermarket tourist office all of them were very nice, I get very sorpraise; but finnally I decided to cross the border to Croatia, its the first border that they take me the passport and ask where I am going, to me askme where I am going if I dont know how I am going to tell you Ok the first city that comes to my mind Dubrovnik, I dont where is exactly, Dubrovnik? he show with sorpraise face, ok go but very edge people arrogant, I start to think that it was not good idea to croos the border…

But this just stay in my head for some minutes after that I can prove that the people is really friendly, simpathic, generous… I the first town (Otok Virje)  that I cross in Croatia I stop to the tourist office and they giveme a perfect map for the region with all the shelters in the mountains. So decide to look for one of this shelters I start to ride in coratia directly to the mountains, after ask some local people and with some “luck” I find it, it is vagon of a old train it is close but is good place to put my tent down of the roof, with some tables and chairs, the place is very cozy, still not so cold…. I think that leave the cold placesback me, definetly I went more fast that I was thinking today totally it was 130km, so from here I can relax more and enjoy Croattia.

Ok I need first of all find a town where I can change some money, buy some food and buy a small bottle of gas, yesterday it was finnish while I was cooking a soup with rice, so Finnally no soup…

I start the day following the same mountain road going inside the mountains and enjoy that, but just with three gears in my bike is difficult to go up, anyway I enjoy this beautiful sunny cold day,sometimes with this atmosphere that takes the smog, just enjoy with all good or bad. I feel very good going up, down all is wonderful, the people are nice they dont worry to ask me, just ith the hands we can comunicate, finnally I arrive to Ivanec where I change my old Chezk Krones and some Euros but changing the Krones they give like more than the double still I dont Understand (I give for them 700CZK =28 €=209HRK and they give me 576HRK = 1922CZK = 77€) so at the end I give like 28€ and they give me 77€, they are very friendly and generous defintly…while I change the money some people outside takes photos of my bike and we try to speak little bit. I buy all the stuff that I need and I go to find a village with tourist office maybe they have a map for shelters I find it in Marija Bistrica, they give a map with some information about shelters it is around Donja Podgora,    little bit difficult to find specially when is getting dark and the “road” go up up, and my gears arent enough to to ride this, anyway finnally I found it, what I was thinking was the shelter but it was the hunters home, but no problem, I prepare some fire, and the mysticism of the place start to feel in me, very cold but with the fire, beer, and watching the stars the atmosphere is very warm, just think in nothing and feel free in the mountains, also start to appear the full moon with a wonderful orange colour, ohh thats perfect

Not so much cold during the night but when I start to cycling and going down mama mia, trtrtrtr, all the plants aroun the road are completly frozen, beautiful to see how can changes the landscape all completly white, small rivers going down, and the smell of the smoke from the chimneys of houses, croosing small villages, watching people working in the field, Dobre dutch (good morning)  you can think that is stupid but when you are inside there for me is wonderfull to be part of this landscape; finish to go down now I prefer to go up and get warm, still is a very sunny day, so to take more warm I take a coffee with whisky, thats good… Meeec Meeec the men of bus that I was talking before.

Now I am so near to Zagreb the capital of Croacia, but I dont want to visit, another time a big city still not long time from Wien, and enter visit go out it will take more time that I have, so I go directly to Zapresic, where I meet a Ivana in the tourist office, very friendly she invite to spend all the time that I want and she offerme a cup of coffe also she make a suggestion to go to eat a sendvich in the market, mmm delicious I just went to look for some maps and finnally I spend more than 2 hours just talking, she writte some words in Croatian and she warns me about the dangers in Croatia, some people die in the mountains for the cold, thats good to know, and becarefull with the people I really dont feel that but every where can happends bad things.

So I take my bike another time to go to Samobor is just about 8Km but I need to take a ferry to croos the sava river but still I didnt arrive to Skela I meet with Eduard just asking how to go there, you want a cup of coffee yeah for sure why not, he inviteme to enter in the hairdress and we share a conversation he was travelling around the world by boat, during lot of years with her wife, still they love travel thats the best you can do to learn about the life… thats true, he offerme a homemade cheesse and I dont know whats was the other thing something fat but good. See you in next life, he told me ,for sure. I didnt take the bike that it cames her wife and she invitemeto enter another time in hairdress, she told you must beneed to writte a book my soon is travelling every year similar like you around the world, and every year he writte a book, she give the contact for him also he is colaborating with national geography, ( I was thinking that before but if I found somebody and tell me casuality?) finnally we made a photo all together imaging, typical hairdress full of women they dont stop to laughing, Ok now is time to go if not will be night I didnt will arrive anywhere…

I take the boat and just 5 Km is Samobor small town where i decide to pass the night in youth hostel